Hawaii is a surfer’s paradise. Its four biggest islands offer swells and pipes for every level, and the season dictates the quality of the waves. Here’s the guide on where to hang ten in the Aloha State.
When the Swell’s Swell
The seasons in Hawaii dictate how epic the waves will be. Luckily, there’s an easy pneumonic to make sure you get it right. In the north and west beaches, the winter season has the largest swells, peaking around December. Just remember west and winter start with W. The south beaches swell in summer, and both summer and south start with an S. This is true for all four islands.
North Shore Oahu
Oahu has the best pro surf there is, and its North Shore is the spot to hit for the legendary hang ten experience Hawaii promises. For the waves the pros crave, hit these beaches:
- Banzai Pipeline
- Backdoor
- Off the Wall
- Turtle Bay
- Velzyland
- Waimea Bay
- Log Cabins
- Rockpiles
- Rocky Point
- Sunset Beach
The final stop for the Triple Crown of Surfing and the Association of Surfing Professionals World Tour both happen at Banzai Pipeline. The picture-perfect tubes break left on the reef at sheer velocity, which favors our goofy-footed brothers and sisters. But fear not, regular-footed adventurers. The shallow-reefed vigor of Backdoor is the next spot over, and it breaks right. Most of these northern Oahu spots demand a certain mastery, like Waimea Bay’s 30-foot swells, the powerful long blasts along Log Cabins, and the high-performance waves at Rocky Point.
South Shore Oahu
The south Oahu spots will have reciprocate quality to the north, per season. Check out these spots:
- Ala Moana Bowls
- Queens
- Canoe’s
- Publics
Of them all, Ala Moana Bowls will test your skill the most. Queens and Canoe’s are a casual ride for intermediate or beginner surfers, and Publics offers smooth, long lefts.
Maui
Hit Maui for a whole range of surf options. The big waves at Pe’ahi are world famous, and Honolua Bay is the most renowned on the island, serving up some hefty barrel action on good days. Surfing in Maui can be found at these locations:
- Honolua Bay
- Pe’ahi
- Ho’okipa
- Lahaina
- Kihei
Lahaina and Kihei are where longboarders can take it easy on Maui. All of these destinations are a bit spread out around the island, so get yourself a van or a car.
Kauai
In the northernmost island of Hawaii, you’ll find some of the rawest low-crowd surf there is. Maui and Oahu can get busy and inundated with partiers, but Kauai is known for purists who seek adventure without any of the party scene. After sunset, there’s little going on around the island, making it a place to focus on hanging ten, hiking, and chasing the sunset. The Kauai surfing spots offer advanced and beginner locations, so here is the list in descending order, advanced to beginner.
- Waikoko
- Polihale
- Kealia
- Hanalei Bay
- Hideaways
- Poipu
- Rock Quarry
The Big Island
Surfing on the main island of Hawaii is often ignored, but there are a few spots that offer worthwhile breaks with half the crowd.
- Banyans
- Pine Trees
- Kahalu’u
- Honoli’i
All surf spots on the big island break both right and left, and all crash over reefs, so bring your booties.
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